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  Click for  the Prototype's Video

L10 Extreme  Kit Components*:

1.  Left Top Frame
2.  Right Top Frame
3. & 4.  Bottom Frames
5.  Battery/Gyro Tray
6.  Receiver Tray
7.  Frame Attachment Struts to Landing Gear
8.  Anti-Rotation Slider
9.  Primary Drive Case
10.  Induction Hardened Primary Drive Helical Pinion and Gear set
11.  Tail boom and gear mount
12.  Spacers, Bolts, Hardware and Main Shaft Bearing set.

*(Note: the production Kits are Black CF, not Blue)
Extreme Upgrade kit - <click on picture to enlarge>

Step 1:

 On the right and left top frames, install 2.5mmx12 servo bolts with 2.5mm nuts for the aileron and pitch servos facing outwards as shown. Note that the kit is pre drilled for DS3421 servos, so there is no cutting or auxiliary servo framing required to adjust the opening or slots if you use the recommended servos. Later, the finished installed aileron and pitch servos will stand 3mm off from the top frames considering  the nut plus two washers under the servo to give the correct standoff. The Elevator servo will mount flush on the frame, outside facing inward as shown on the black completed Extreme in the picture below. The elevator servo can go on either side, depending on the preferences with your radio.

Note: the DS3421 servos for the 120 deg CCPM are highly recommended for the Extreme upgrade as they deliver significantly more torque than DS368's or the Futuba S9650 series (65 oz-in verses 50 oz-in at 4.8v), with good speed.

 

  
   
     

Step 2:

 Next install the main bearing blocks on the left upper fame using the M3x8 bolts. (I recommend you assemble the entire kit by just snugging up the bolts before  applying blue loctite to the highly loaded components and final tightening of the kit and later) . Also install the three hex spacers that hold the Rx Tray and the Anti-rotation link with M3x6 blots. Note that the bearing blocks have the smaller diameter facing inward toward each other.

 

      
   
     

Step 3:

 Join the right upper fame to the left upper fame using the same bolt pattern.

 
   
   

Step 4:

 Flip the assembly over. Add one of the lower fames to the top frame assembly using the 26mm threaded spacers and the 13mm standoff spacers using the M3x25mm bolts. Note that one pair of 13mm spacers at the rear will be connected using an M3x20 bolt and 3mm nut. This is to allow the tail control rod to pass to the tail slider later.

 
 
   

Step 5:

 Finish by adding the second lower frame on the other side and installing the canopy standoffs by  splitting the 3mm rod  into two halves and screwing them into the 26mm threaded spacer. Add the 3 59mm square battery tray supports to the battery tray, noting that the gyro area will end up on the right side when the tray is flipped and installed. Use the 3mmx4 countersunk screws to attach the battery supports to the tray. Before installing the battery tray you may wish to slide the Landing Gear attachment braces into the slots, although they can be worked through later under the tray.

 
 
   

Step 6:

 Below is how the frame assembly should look after the battery tray and receiver tray are attached with the countersunk screws. If you look closely, you will see some of the improvements made from the black prototype to production. The area behind the top bearing block is higher to help accommodate a bit taller servos and the whole frame has a 2.5 degree slope towards the front to raise the tail rotor higher for better operation off grass fields. The battery tray is longer, and the gyro is now out of the way so that the newest generation of high "s" single Lipo packs can be installed for even higher voltages.

 
 
   

Step 7:

 Build up the primary gearbox by bolting the three pieces together. Use the M3x10mm bolts for the casing. Note that the vertical motor mount is NOT symmetrical. The hole for the motor is closer to the top of the gear case, and further from the bottom. Don't over tighten yet.. Because of the high torque developed in the main gear (it multiplies the motor torque by a factor of 2), you will have to use a dremmel to make a narrow flat at the correct height for the grub screw when the shaft is properly located just flush with the top bearing. It is also a good idea to do a small flat for the top retaining collar's grub screw. Once marked, remove the shaft and create the flats. Reinstall the gear set and prepare the motor the same way for the driving helical pinion, noting where the gears line up and dremmel a narrow flat for the pinion grub screw. Do not make the motor flat wider than the grub screw, to make sure that the pinion will not walk along the motor shaft under extreme loads. Do the smae for the spur pinion that will be in contact with the main gear. Once everything is lined up to your satisfaction, use loctite on all bolts and grub screw openings and tighten everything securely. The primary gear set and motor should end up like you see in the right photo below.

 
   

Step 8:

 The tailboom is prepared by removing the plastic tail gear holder assembly and replacing it with the CNC version as shown below. Note that there is a grub screw hole in the rearward boom block and that the long bolts will be used to cross the cinch slot to tighten the boom in place. The short screws are used to mount the boom spacers on the side opposite to the slots and on the opposite side from the long bolts that squeeze the slots. I put the slot for the rear boom spacer facing the top so the boom's grub screw can easily be accessed from below. There is also a grub screw to lock in the tail pulley shaft. Use loctite to hold the tail pulley  axle bracket in place.

 
 
   

Step 9:

 Finish by adding the tail boom to the main frame assembly. Once you are happy with the build, use loctite for the main bearings and the tail boom attachments as you see fit. Finish the assembly by adding the servos and main rotor assembly per the regular instructions that came with your heli. Note that the elevator will be reversed from the normal Logo, so you will need to reprogram your Radio accordingly.
   

Notes:

 This is a high performance heli and you MUST have a thrust bearing kit installed in the head along with stiff dampers.
  • To get maximum satisfaction from the machine, use 20mm servo arms, the 360mm flybar (verses the 300mm stock) and the lightened paddles.
  • The design Rotor RPM is 2000 with a motor speed of approximately 40,000. It is purpose designed for Lipo batteries, so pick your voltage and motor's accordingly.
  • The JR DS 3421 servos are HIGHLY recommended for this machine because of the torque  loading that can be placed on the servos with the very stiff frame and quick response..
  • The minimum gyro (and recommended one) should be a Futaba 401 with the 9254 Servo. Use the same throw as the stock machine.
  • Highly recommended are the metal swash and metal washout on the main rotor system.
  • Do NOT use wooden blades on this machine. Use quality blades from a well known manufacturer.

 
   
 

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